Category Archives: Thoughts and Observations

Music Man

While I was home in Oregon for Christmas I made a much dreaded trip to Michael’s Arts and Crafts store. As I was walking out with my daughter Meredith, I made the statement that if anyone ever wanted to truly torture me, they should force me to work at Michael’s for a weekend.

It’s not that I’m not crafty. I went through an arts and craft phase. I have the scars from the hot glue gun that melted my fingertips together as I secured pine cones to a wire wreath to sell at a school auction to prove it. I can do crafts – I just choose not to.

No, it would be torture because of how disorganized the place is. Nothing seems to make sense in the way the store is laid out and whoever the buyer is should be fired. The service is terrible and the entire layout of the cash registers is inefficient and just wrong.

Making me work at Michael’s might be my worst nightmare.

That’s what I thought until I arrived back in Shanghai. Meredith came back with us and as we were out exploring we happened upon The Music Man.  A title I’ve given a man who sells CDs on the street corner. The most annoying man with perhaps the worst job in all of Shanghai.

I know, seems harmless enough but what you don’t understand is he “samples” the same 2 songs over and over on a very loud sound system, attached to his motor scooter. It’s a great sound system. You can hear the music from a block away.

For the four months that we’ve lived here, I have passed The Music Man everyday on my way home from work. As I approach I hear one song. A jazzy number done in Spanish. Not sure of the title but it’s a catchy little tune. Makes you want to stop and do a dance. I’m thinking of organizing a flash mob but no need to stand out more than I already do.

I captured it on a video for you to enjoy. Listen to it over and over and you too may find it annoying. Check it out.

So there’s that song and then it seems, every time I get closer to him, he reaches down and switches over to the theme song from the 1979 movie The Rose starring, Bette Midler. Just as I’m choreographing the flash mob in my head to the spanish number, he switches over, bringing the party down with The Rose. I now know every word and often find myself signing along. Take a look and listen.

So now I’m conflicted. What’s worse? Working at Michael’s Arts and Crafts store or standing on the street corner everyday for hours on end, being forced to listen to the same two songs over and over, rarely making a sale.

Here’s a tip

As a quick refresher, the Japanese invented square watermelons so they would fit better in the small size refrigerators they use in their homes. The skins are the same. The color, the pattern and the fruit itself even taste the same. So why does it seem so strange?

Our goal in moving to China was to explore the world outside our comfort zone. To find the differences and celebrate the things that are the same. I call those things Square Melons.

With the passing of our first 90 days of living in Shanghai I thought we would share some of our observations and some of the Square Melons we have discovered.

First, there’s no tipping in China. You don’t tip the cab drivers, you don’t tip at the hair salon or nail place and you definitely do not tip at a resturant. Tipping in China is considered by some as impolite or that one’s work is undervalued by the employer.

So okay, no tipping. It feels really strange, especially when we’re receiving some of the best service we’ve ever received and you don’t tip.

Now what’s interesting and definetly a Square Melon moment is when your wait staff hands you a short survey to complete about the overall service. You’re asked to rate the environment, the appetizers, the food, even the “smile.” All in an effort to improve.

Twice now, I’ve completed the form by checking the boxes but left the space for written comments blank. Our waitress hands it back to me and points to the section. I quickly write something like “Jasmine’s (most wait staff wear name tags) smile was warm and welcoming and we really enjoyed the dumplings.” Jasmine seems thrilled and extremely grateful when we hand it back. Can you image what will happen next time at The Olive Garden in Beaverton when I leave a handwritten note instead of a tip?

Men first. Something that has taken a little getting used to for both Greg and I is the fact that men are served first. In Chinese custom, the most senior male by social ranking and age are served first. Same with entering a door or an elevator. Greg has had several stand-offs with women as he tries to get them to enter a door first.

Do not leave any gaps when standing in line. If you leave any space, personal space, someone will fill in. If you’re waiting in line at the grocery store, Starbucks or the ATM, do not leave what you believe is appropriate space or you’ll find someone “cutting” inline. Greg once left some space between us at the Starbucks and a man cut in and was standing so close to me, I could feel his breath on my neck. I turned around ready to tell Greg to step off only to find a strange man between us.

Something similar happens in elevators. In the morning there is a line waiting to get on one of the six elevators going up to the NIKE offices. People pack themselves into the next available elevator so tight, one of my co-workers has termed it “nuts to butts.”

On a positive note, at least for me, handshaking is the expected greeting. No hugging, no kissing and mostly when a man greets me, a woman, he just nods to avoid the handshake. All good here.

I’ve been to several dining events now where toasting at the table is a ceremony in itself.  When someone calls for a toast, which by the way, is throughout the entire meal, you are expected to finish whatever is in your glass as a sign of respect to the one you are toasting. This is called ganbei or as you may know it, bottom’s up. And because the service is so great, there is always someone right there to refill your glass.

After a 3 hour luncheon, you can be in a pretty good mood or ready for a nap. Rumor has it, they do this with business partners to find out your true personality. Well guess what? My personality is the same only I’m much funnier. I think. I can’t really remember.

I was also taught that when clinking your glass with people at the table, you should lower your glass to anyone who is considered higher status then you, and anyone your junior should lower their glass to yours. I wasn’t always sure so I just lowered my glass with every toast. One man, lowered his after my gesture and I think I chuckled out loud at the visual of us both ending up on the floor trying to “out respect” one another.

As a pedestrian, you do not have the right of way. Not in a cross walk, not in a parking lot, not on a side walk. That’s correct. Not even on the side walk. Bicycles and motor scooters can and do use the side walk and they have the right of way. Greg and I learned the hard way one night, while walking home on the side walk. A silent, electric motor scooter who’s operator chose not to use his headlight, almost wiped us out as he passed. Hey. How about a little beep of the horn? Or why not do what we do while riding bikes in Sunriver or Black Butte – we simply yell out “on your left.” That could work.

Like our belief that the number 13 is considered bad luck, the Chinese believe that the number 4 is unlucky. It has the same spelling as the noun “death” or the verb “to die.” On the flip side, the number 8 is considered very lucky. It sounds much like the word meaning to “get rich.”

I learned the number 38 could be a problem when identified with women. It sounds much like the word sanba which can mean bitchy. In China, on 3/8 women get a half of day off of work. Restaurants and shops offer special deals to women and most cities celebrate her. Curious why March 8th, 3/8, is International Day of Women. Ironic, isn’t it? Or is it? I’m afraid to ask.

A few observations and learnings after our first 90 days. We’re loving the experience and learn something new every day. It’s exhausting and energizing at the same time. So much to share with our friends and family as we head back to Oregon for Christmas and the New Year. Ganbei my friends. Ganbei

A Universal Language

A marathon is the same distance no matter where it’s held. 26.2 miles or when outside the U.S. – 42.194988 kilometers. A great NIKE moment today, as Greg and I attended the 2013 Shanghai International Marathon.

Sunny’s Big Day

Blessings from Sunny & James

Blessings for Sunny & James

Recently, I was sitting in my office and a co-worker from our digital team came by with a small, beautifully wrapped gift. As she handed it to me, she explained it was wedding candy from her wedding reception held over the weekend. I’m sure she wanted to just drop it off and move on but I of course had a few questions.

First, I thanked her for sharing, pulled out my notebook and then dove into my interview mode.

Sunny explained that it is tradition to offer the candy to the guests who attend the wedding and to your co-workers. The small note on the top of the box read “Thank you for your blessing.”

I learned from Sunny that she had first met James online, when they began to follow each other on Sina Weibo (think Facebook meets Twitter) in 2011. James reached out to meet Sunny in person a couple times but she was too busy working on a NIKE campaign for the London Olympics.

James tried once again asking Sunny out for drinks and because the Olympics were over, she agreed. Sunny learned that James worked for Nissan as a supply chain production manager. Interesting to note, James asked about the NIKE employee discount on their first date.

They dated for about nine months, moved in together and James asked Sunny to marry him during the annual housecleaning leading up to Chinese New Year. Much like spring cleaning, the housecleaning before Chinese New Year, is both real and a metaphor for clearing out the old and making way for the new year and good fortune. Sunny wasn’t thrilled with the timing and James’s lack of romance. How could he ask her to marry him while she’s dusting and sweeping floors, sweating and dirty and not feeling her best? She let him know it but eventually agreed to marry him.

I learned from Sunny that the actual marriage is a legal transaction. The 2 sets of parents agree on the dates where a celebration is to be held in each of their home towns. The first celebration was to held in James’s hometown. James’s family is more traditional and held a very traditional wedding celebration.

The day starts with Sunny getting her hair and make-up done and dressed in a traditional wedding dress. James meets her at the salon, gets down on one knee and gives her a ring. He escorts her to the door and out to a decorated car waiting to take them to his parent’s house.

They arrive at the family home where James holds a red umbrella over Sunny as they approach the parents, key family members and a few friends who are lined up outside to greet them. James’s mother greets Sunny and hands her an red envelop of cash.

Hold it right there. The mother-in-law gives cash to the new bride? Interesting. Go on I say.

Sunny tells me they have a small gathering at the house, take pictures and head to a hotel for the reception.

The wedding celebration, a luncheon, includes 250 of the family’s relatives and friends. Each guest brings a red envelop with cash to give to the newly married couple. This gift is known as hongbao. The color red symbolizes good luck and wards off evil spirits.

I learned that the mother-in-law has someone “keep the books” as the envelops are presented. She keeps a ledger to mark down who gave what amount. I am liking this mom. When I asked why, Sunny explained the mother will want to know so that a fair amount is given when they are invited to a future wedding of the guest who gifted them. Right. That’s why I would want to know.

At the reception, Sunny and James work the room. They go to each table greeting their guests and partaking in a toast. Each table hosts 10 guests.  wedding_lunchIn the center of each table are snacks, alcohol and cigarettes. When the couple gets to each table, a toast or ganbei is made to each guest. The tradition requires that each guest empty their glass with each toast. 10 toasts, starting with the most important member of the table, working your way around until all 10 have been toasted, or as I can imagine, all 10 are toasted.  The bride and groom, do not have to finish their drink as they have 25 tables to visit.

During the toasting, the food is served and the guests enjoy time together. After the event the couple head back to the house for a rest.

That evening, the same group of key family members are at the house and they set off fireworks in honor of the couple. The mother-in-law has completely redone James’s childhood bedroom. It is draped in red and the bed is made up with red, silk sheets. She has placed Chinese characters on the wall that spell out “Happiness.” Sunny and James spend the night in the room of good fortune and good luck.

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The event is repeated in Sunny’s hometown but much more dialed back. Sunny’s parents are both artists and did not want all the fuss and wedding traditions. They did host a luncheon for close family and friends but asked that no hongbao, red envelopes be presented.

I loved hearing about the traditions of the Chinese wedding from Sunny. It was so nice of her to share the information and pictures from her big day.

Matt purposes to Leanne at the finish of the NIKE Women's 1/2 Marathon.

Matt purposes to Leanne at the finish of the NIKE Women’s 1/2 Marathon.

This all comes at a perfect time as our son Matt has just recently purposed to his girlfriend, Leanne.

As we begin to make plans for the upcoming wedding, I’ll be sure to compare the “Square Melons” of the two cultures all while redecorating Matt’s childhood room and looking for a supply of red envelopes and a ledger.

Outside The Zone

When we decided to move to Shanghai we did so knowing that we wanted to get outside our comfort zone and explore all that life had to offer. We wanted to shake things up and get out of our easy-going and predictable routine. So when co-workers, Chinese Nationals, make the statement that you’re not really living in China, you’re living in Shanghai, I take offense. First because most have never been to Central Beaverton, so they have no idea how different living in Shanghai, China is from living within the same 5 mile radius your entire life. And second, because they have not experienced how competitive I am, especially with myself, and a statement like that just makes me want to do things to prove them wrong.

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So, today, Greg and I went with Kenny to the ancient water town of Qibao (Chee Bow and that’s bow as in the verb, like take a bow.) Qibao was built during the Northern Song Dynasty from the years 960 – 1126. It is built along the Puhui River with beautiful bridges built to make your way back and forth throughout the 8 mile town. It is known now for tea houses located in some of the original yet restored buildings and for the street food.

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As we parked the car, I looked around and made the statement “we’re not in Beaverton anymore.” Right away, outside the car was a fresh meat market. Hanging from wires were different types of raw meat, drying and ready for purchase. Kenny shared it was the meat of mutton or sheep if you’re from the UK, Australia or New Zealand.

Square Melons I thought to myself. This is much like walking through Whole Foods and seeing all the fresh meat at the butcher counter. IMG_1162Square Melons until I saw the caged chickens and people picking them out for purchase. I grew up with animals, including chickens. I’ve witnessed where the phrase “run around like a chicken with their head cut off” came from. I’m okay with this. I’m comfortable. Square Melons. It’s just like being back at home, at the house on Farmington Road where I grew up, out near the barn with my brothers and sisters watching as my dad “prepared” the chickens for dinner.

We continued on and as we crossed one of the bridges we came to the area I’m guessing was designated for entertainment. We saw people gathered around small tables participating in the Chinese version of the shell game. Placing bets and losing money. We saw palm readers, which Kenny pointed out as fakes. He said if we wanted to have our palms read we should go to one in the temples. Greg and I gave each other a glance as we both flashed back to the palm reader from the Grand View Garden temple who took one look at Greg’s palm and walked away.

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We saw musicians and artist showing off their works. Just when I was feeling like I was under the Burnside Bridge in Portland walking through Saturday Market we happened upon a man and his trick monkeys. He had 3 monkeys leashed up and was speaking in a soft, “monkey whisperer” type voice as the monkeys acted out the commands. IMG_1164They jumped and did flips or sat as they waited for their turn. One monkey was masked up with some sort of wire, Silence of the Lambs, device. Greg commented that he must be a biter. I remembered when Meredith was at NIKE daycare and I would get a call that a classmate had bitten her. Perhaps they should invest in some of these masks.

Everything is going well. Fascinating sites and I’m feeling pretty comfortable. And then Kenny motions that we’re turning to go down this road. I could feel all my insecurities and phobias amplifying within me. A heightened sense of “there’s no place like home” rushing through me. I turn to look at Greg who just smiles and pushes me forward towards Kenny who is now a few steps ahead.IMG_0497

It’s the famous or infamous, however you choose to look at it – food street. Let’s see if I can set the stage for you while you review the picture. It’s packed. Packed. The smell, I find out later is Stinky Tofu, Kenny tells me the Chinese love it. It becomes all too clear how it got its name. People are shoving and pushing their way through. Eating, laughing and pointing out favorite foods and candy along the way. Greg and I, by the way, are the only “westerners” in site. Kenny is moving farther away from us and as who I can only hope is Greg, feel someone pushing me from behind to catch up.

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Kenny steps off to the side and motions for us to join him. We head into one of the vendor’s spaces where he shares with us that this is where Shanghai wine is made. He walks through like he owns the place, taking us to the very back where we see large bamboo containers full of rice and where huge ceramic vats of wine are stored.

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As we make our way back to the storefront, Kenny asks if we would like to sample some wine. He points to the shelves for us to pick a type or variety. I very politely decline as I experience yet another great phobia of mine, my first being germs, second being large crowds, third being touched, shoved and pushed by strangers, to see a jar of freshly produced snake wine. Kenny trys to defend and comfort me with a statement that it’s very good for your health. He points to his knees and tells us its good for when the weather is cold. I assume he’s talking about arthritis and Greg states with a big chuckle that maybe you should try some Rosemary. In reference to the palm reader who basically dismissed Greg, I hold up my palm, cross my eye-brows at him and walk away.

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We head back out to the streets of hell and Kenny very proudly states we’re going to have the best dumplings in Shanghai. Greg is really enjoying this now as he knows another phobia of mine is street food. I’ve never eaten at any of the food carts in Portland that everyone brags about. I consider eating at Pepita’s in Beaverton an adventure. I can’t imagine eating at one of these places. Kenny pulls off the street again and seems to be known by the owner of the dumpling shop as they exchange some pleasentries in Chinese. I can only imagine what he is saying “check out these two greenhorns.”  So here’s my chance – I very politely say to Kenny “I’m not sure I can eat here.”

Kenny

Kenny

He completely ignores me and asks if I would like sweet or salty pork dumplings. Greg steps in and says sweet and agrees that we all want the wonton soup. We head up a very narrow staircase to a small table. Kenny sets the table with napkins and chopsticks that he pulls out of a bin much like you would see silverware stored in a cafeteria. He pours the vinegar into the small bowl and gives us each a spoon for our soup. The soup and dumplings arrive and Greg and Kenny dive in. Now I’m conflicted. The voices of my blog come rushing through me “life begins at the end of your comfort zone” and the thought that those damn co-workers challenging me that I’m living the comfortable life of Shanghai. And so I join in. I surrender all my anxieties and phobias and enjoy the best dumplings of Shanghai and some delicious wonton soup.

As we leave the streets of Qibao to head back to our car, I look over to see the “good luck kitties” all waving to me from the storefront as if to IMG_0504congratulate me on living outside my comfort zone.

A Walk In The Park

A Dream of Red Mansions is a famous, classic novel written by a Chinese author in the 18th Century. You may know it as Dream of Red Chambers as it is sometimes translated. Me? I’ve never heard of it, but I was excited to visit the garden this weekend that was modeled after this apparently famous novel turned into movies and recently into a TV series here in China.

Greg and I visited Grand View Gardens on Saturday. Kenny picked us up and drove us west of Shanghai to the Qingpu district to see the Gardens. It is beautifully located on the banks of Dianshan Lake. We spent a couple hours walking the park, viewing the many pavilions, crossing the bridges and exploring the different paths throughout. We happened upon a small temple hidden inside a group of pavilions and we’re invited in by a man handing out incense at the front gate. He helped us light the incense and then led us in to a statue with a kneeler placed in front. As he motioned for us to kneel, I was tempted to share “Hey, I’m Catholic. I’m familiar with the kneeler” but I locked up my thoughts, knelt in front of an alter and bowed my head a couple times and placed the incense in the big, iron burner.

Protected by 8th Dragon

Protected by 8th Dragon

When we got up, we were offered a small red envelope from a large glass container. It reminded me of the barrel you would chose your BINGO or lottery numbers from. We reached in and selected an envelop. Next, we were escorted over to a small table where a holy man was sitting. I say holy man because I know he wasn’t a priest and I’m not sure he was a monk, but he had a holiness about him. I sat down in front of him. He had me put my hands together in a prayer like position. He placed his hands over mine and muttered some words. He picked up the envelop and held it over my head. He opened the envelop, read it and gave me a thumbs up sign. Greg’s turn. He did the same thing with Greg who also got a big thumbs up.

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As we were walking out with our red envelopes in hand, another man from the temple came up and acted out that he wanted to see my hand. I turned my hand over and he viewed my palm. He smiled a big smile, and gave me a thumbs up. When he looked at Greg’s, his eyebrows crossed a bit and with no smile and no thumbs up, he walked away. That’s when we both dismissed the whole thing as a hoax and continued on our walk.

We met up with Kenny outside the gates and showed him our 2 cards. He read mine and said it read that I will be surrounded by money and wealth and will always have good luck. I was back in. No hoax for me. He read Greg’s and said he was also very lucky. He was much like a King, protected by the 8th Dragon. We agreed that the palm reader was just intimidated by Greg’s sense of royalty.

Hope you enjoy the photos we took while walking the paths of the Grand View Gardens.

Hot and Cold

While I was in Beijing recently for some meetings, I had dinner with a group of co-workers. The private room was set with two large tables in the upstairs of a local restaurant. Each table sat 10 people and a large, glass lazy Susan filled the middle of the table. As food was added to the table, we would slowly spin the lazy Susan and help ourselves to the dishes. I did have to chuckle with the thought of having had a lazy Susan at our family dinner table growing up.  The Chinese are so polite and slow when turning the food to offer it to each guest. The 8 kids at our dinner table would have had that thing spinning one way and flying back around the other way to make sure they got the last piece of chicken.

As items were being served and offered around the table, I noticed one woman, passing on many of the dishes. I took notice because as the one of two Americans sitting at the table, I was trying to be respectful and to try most everything offered. I also was trying not to show any reaction when the duck’s head was served along with the sliced Peking duck, the restaurant’s specialty dish.

As the dinner went on, we got to know each other a little better and the conversation was a little less formal. So of course, I had to ask why she had passed on so many of the dishes. She responded with the fact that she was pregnant and she needed to stay away from hot foods. The person to my right, leaned in and said “it’s a Chinese thing.”

I’ve been here in China now just over 2 months and I get the “it’s a Chinese thing” but what folks here need to understand is I have a curious mind and well, telling me “it’s a Chinese thing” is not a dismissal to me, It’s an invitation to start asking questions.

And so,  I started in. I asked to explain why and how hot foods would effect a pregnancy. This is when the other American at the table, a male, got up and moved to table 2. This should be considered a warning to the male readers – I will be using the “U” word in the next couple paragraphs, so you may want to go back to the blog on The Great Wall and look at the pictures.

I learned from the women at the table that according to traditional Chinese medicine there are foods that are considered hot and cold. That the body requires you balance the intake of these foods in order to stay healthy. They talked about the yin and yang of foods. YinYangThat yin foods are believed to decrease the body’s heat and lower the metabolism and that yang foods are dense energy and increase your metabolism. They talked about how too much hot foods or yang may give you acne and bad breath while too much yin might make you tired and depressed. Fascinating. I had to know more.

The woman who was just 4 months pregnant was concerned with getting enough yin foods. I learned that eating seaweed, coconut milk, pork and leafy vegetables strengthens the uterus and that eating hot spicy foods should be avoided as it damages the yin.

The person to my left, pointed at my plate and suggested I eat the skin I had peeled from off of the fish they had served. She said it would help with the dryness of my skin, pointing to my face. Have I mentioned that the Chinese can be a bit direct?

When I got back to the office in Shanghai, I brought up yin and yang foods to the women I work with. I learned more from them about the effects different foods might have on the body and also how it effects your mood. Too much yang can make you obsessive and controlling. Too much yin can make you passive and lethargic. They even joked that too much or too little of yin or yang can effect your hair and that I must have too much yang in my system because my hair is curly.

I’ve been looking into it and find it all very interesting. With a little dedicated effort I may return from China with a stronger uterus, great skin, a calmer personality and straight hair.

It’s Good To Be King

Is it wrong that much of my historical knowledge base comes from the Mel Brooks movie History of The World Part 1?  I mean isn’t that where everyone learned about the French Revolution and the Spanish Inquisition? And who could forget Madeline Kahn singing her way through the testing for eunuchs.

I reference the movie often in my mind when I visit a museum, read anything about history or as in the case of this weekend, visit The Forbidden City in Beijing.

The Hall of Supreme Harmony

The Hall of Supreme Harmony

The Forbidden City is located in central Beijing. It was the Imperial Palace from the Ming Dynasty to the end of the Qing Dynasty. Forbidden as in no commoners were allowed inside the walls and no one was allowed in without the Emperor’s permission.

Construction began in 1406 and took over 1 million workers 14 years to complete. The Emperor who oversaw the construction, must of thought very highly of himself as he demanded almost the impossible in every little detail.

We learned through our guide Crystal, that this Emperor, Zhu Di, believed he was the earthly counterpart to the Celestial Emperor and that he demanded the best of everything but never to out do the heavenly abode of the Celestial Emperor.

As an example, The heavenly palace is said to have 10,000 rooms, so Zhu Di had 9,999.5 rooms built within the walls of the Forbidden City. I couldn’t believe it as I was curious to the whereabouts of all these rooms.  I tried not to roll my eyes when Crystal showed us what was considered a room.

Go to your room

Go to your room

She had us look up at the ceiling to see the designed squares. Each square represented a “room.” Really?

You might also recall from an early blog the symbolism of roof decorations. The number of statuettes  or characters represents the status of a building. A minor building or a home outside the palace might have 3 to 5. The Hall of Supreme Harmony has 10 and was the only building in the country permitted to have that many.

Roof decor

Roof decor

The Emperor also owned the color yellow. All the roofs in the Forbidden City are made of yellow tiles. All other buildings and homes were forbidden to use Yellow, the color of the Emperor.

The design inspiration of The Forbidden City is heavily influenced by Feng Shui. Zhu Di wanted to include the five elements of metal, earth, fire, water and wood in the making of The Forbidden City.  Metal and fire are present in the huge brass caldrons that are placed throughout the grounds to hold the water that the servants delivered. Fire was used under the caldrons to keep the water from freezing. Wood is used throughout in the buildings.

Bring me a mountain

Bring me a mountain

Earth was a little trickier to represent so The Emperor had a mountain built north of the city. It was built from the dirt pulled while forming the moats that surround the city.

Beijing is flat. There are no other “mountains” in the area but it was important to the Emperor and so it was built. According to Feng Shui it is favorable to have your residence to the south of a nearby hill.

One more example of the Emperor’s power. He demanded to be carried up the stairs of the different halls he had built. But he couldn’t be carried over the same stairs that the servants used so huge slabs of marble were brought in from the countryside.

On ice

On ice

The slabs were moved in during the winter so the servants could ice the “roads” at night and pull the slabs across the ice or roll them on stems of bamboo.

The devils in the details

The devils in the details

But a slab of marble wasn’t quite good enough so he had artists carve graphics into each slab. He was then carried over the beautifully carved slabs of marble while the servants walked on the stairs to each side.

We walked through the courtyards leading from one hall to another and ended up at the far end of the city where the residence quarters were located. A huge area where we learned only the Emperor’s family lived. The Emperor was married and had many concubines and perhaps hundreds of children.

She's always right

She’s always right

The illusion of power

The illusion of power

The entrance to the living quarter and almost all buildings had two brass lions out front. Crystal explained to us that the female lion is always on the right side of the door as you exit. You can tell it’s a female as under her left paw is a young tiger, laying upside down in a playful position. The male lion is always on the left as you walk out of the door. The male has a ball under his paw symbolizing supremacy over the world.

Crystal joked that today it is said that “the male may be on the left but the female is always right.”

In the movie, History Of The World, Part 1 (there was no Part 2 by the way) Mel Brooks plays King Louis during The French Revolution. He walks around the palace grounds doing whatever he pleases. As he walks around and takes advantage of everyone and everything, he makes the statement “it’s good to be king.” I could only imagine Emperor Zhu Di walking the grounds of The Forbidden City joyfully saying “it’s good to be Emperor.”

The Great Wall

The Great Wall

The Great Wall

The Great Wall. Who came up with that name?

I guess because I’ve worked in the marketing world for most of my career, I tend to think about the process for how things come about. What was the thinking behind a product? Who is it for? What is the benefit? What was the thinking behind the name? And who in a room full of advertising people, thought that ad was a good idea?

I just can’t help myself.  As we made our way from Beijing, heading about 60 miles northeast, on our way to one of the wonders of the world my mind started racing about The Great Wall of China.

Crystal, our guide, gave us a brief history explaining that it began as several individual walls for different states and became the Great Wall during the Qin Dynasty. Emperor Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of China (220-206 BC) had the walls joined together to fend off the Huns in the north.  So there was the thinking behind the product, the why and the benefit.

Crystal shared with us some interesting facts like hundreds of thousands, if not millions of workers died while building the Wall. Some refer to it as the world’s largest cemetery as the deceased were just buried into the Wall by co-workers and the construction continued. Now that’s a tough work environment.

Foreigner?

Foreigner

We arrived at the parking lot and made our way through a street of vendors selling everything from fruits, incense, Mongolian warrior hats and t-shirts with Obama’s face inset into the popular Chairman Mao image.

The vendors are aggressive in their selling approach. They call you out “lady, lady” and if you don’t respond they come right up in front of you until you address them with a nod or a wave of the hand. I guess I stood out as a foreign tourist needing a hat in the shape of panda bear.

We hiked up to the top of a steep hill to purchase our ticket for the gondola ride to the Wall. The gondola ride is really quite beautiful if you can keep your mind off the fact that you are dangling by a single cable over an incredibly steep mountain and that you actually hate rides and as an adult, cried at the anticipation of the drop on Splash Mountain at Disneyland.

The pollution was incredibly bad the day we visited. The air quality index was showing a rating of 317, listed as extremely hazardous with a warning to stay inside – but hey, it’s The Great Wall.

Gondola to the top

Gondola ride to the top

As we made our way to the top, Crystal continued to share facts. The wall is just over 5000 miles long and of course, sections of it have been remodeled or reconstructed over the years. Aside from Mutianyu, the section we were visiting, there are 2 other areas of the wall that are open to the public.

Crystal shared with us that the Wall on the China side is known as the inner wall, the side to Mongolia is known as the outer wall. It’s incredible to hear and see the thinking behind the architecture and to see the engineering that went into construction.

Gutter

Gutter

We learned that the Wall was built with an ever so slight slope with a “gutter” running along the inner side so that the rain would drain to the China side where the villagers would collect the water. Brilliant.

Peek-a-boo

Peek-a-boo

We also learned that the cutouts seen along the wall were designed at an angle so the soldiers could look down onto Mongolia and shoot arrows through with no chance they would be seen or fired upon. Genius.

We walked for about an hour on The Wall. The images are really deceiving as the terrain is incredibly steep. The stones are uneven and steps are made for small feet.

Studio

Studio

Greg and I were taken by the “greatness” of it all. The Wall could be seen for miles. The craftsmanship and the attention to detail were incredible.

A guiding principle for marketing is to evoke emotion with the name, the look and the feel of a brand. I guess that’s what Emperor Qin and his marketing team had in mind when they came up with the name, The Great Wall.

Sister Suzhou

This weekend, we traveled about 90 minutes outside of Shanghai to Suzhou – Sue Joe to be helpful. Suzhou just happens to be a sister city of Portland.

Kenny picked us up and was excited to share that he had downloaded some of his favorite American music for us to listen to on our drive. We drove through the crowded highways of China listening to Michael Jackson, Mariah Carey and Whitney Houston. Did I mention karaoke is big here in China?

I asked Kenny if Suzhou was a big city and he dismissed it with a shrug and a strong no. When looking into facts around Suzhou I found that the population is just over 4 million. Nothing, I guess, to someone who is born and raised Shanghainese.

Suzhou was originally founded in 514 BC during the Sui Dynasty. Let’s do a quick sidebar on the history of Dynasties in China. There have been 3 periods of Dynasty rule in China – Ancient, Imperial and Modern.  Within the Ancient period there was Xia, Shang and Zhou. Imperial was not quite as organized and there were numerous Dynasties and through disagreements and battles was sometimes split into Dynasties governing over separate territories. But more recently within the Imperial period, Yuan (1271-1368), Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) Dynasties implemented  some organization and key decisions in history and culture were made.

The Modern Dynasty, the one we are in now, has had 2 – Republic of China (1912-1949) and People’s Republic of China (1949 – present). Interesting to note, it is Chinese tradition that each new Dynasty writes the history of the Dynasty that preceded. It’s a good thing the U.S. government and the era of each new presidencies hasn’t caught on to this practice.

Any who, Suzhou was founded during the Imperial era, during one of the split Dynasties of North and South. It was the commercial hub for China before Shanghai. Many of the building’s architecture and gardens are original or have been rebuilt after battles to reflect the original era.

We visited the Zhuozheng Yuan or the Humble Administrator’s Garden, a garden dating back to  the Ming Dynasty. According to Kenny and Wikipedia, it is the most famous garden in all of China. This garden, by the way, is the one that is the inspiration for the Lan Su Chinese Garden in Portland. Lan Su was built by visiting artisans from Suzhou. Go visit when you’re in Portland. It must be beautiful this time of year.

After touring the garden we went to Xuanmiao Guan temple or The Temple of Mystery. This Taoist temple is located in the center of the city. First founded in the Ancient Dynasty era (AD 276) it was destroyed by wars and rebuilt in 1174. There are two entrances to the temple – the Gate of Good Luck to the east and the Gate of Fulfilled Wishes to the west. We made sure to enter thru Good Luck and exit thru Fulfilled Wishes. A true sign of the Modern Era ruling is the McDonalds and KFC located just outside the gates of the temple – I like to think of that exit as the Gate of Obesity and Digestive Issues.

Our last visit was to the Silk Factory and Museum of Suzhou. Suzhou is known as the most premium in the manufacturing of Silk. The factory was fascinating and walked you through the production from silkworm to finished products. It was a bit like visiting Graceland, now stay with me, like Graceland in that, you are moved by the history and process and then disappointed when at the end of your guided tour you are dumped into a store to buy memorabilia, trinkets and trash. I wonder if Graceland and Ancient China have ever been compared before?

It was a beautiful fall day and it was great to take a drive, sing along with Man in the Mirror and visit the Sister City of our hometown.

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